Cármenes of Granada: Secret gardens with nasrid history and captivating views.
Contenidos
Image: Nelebka’s Room
“All around Granada, among the many gardens both in the plain and on the hills, there are—though hidden by trees—so many Moorish houses scattered here and there that, if they could be brought together, they would form another city no smaller than Granada. And although most are small, they all have their water, fountains, rose bushes, musk roses, myrtles, and every refinement.” (Andrea Navaggiero)
The Origin of the Carmen
Today we talk about a construction deeply rooted in Granada’s identity: the carmen. The name comes from the Hispano-Arabic term Karm, meaning “vineyard.” Its origins date back to the Nasrid era, when it became a traditional rural estate devoted both to vine cultivation and leisure.
On this occasion, we revisit documents from the Patronato Municipal Fundación Albaicín, especially the work “Cármenes de Granada” by Luis Seco de Lucena Paredes, which captures the essence of these unique spaces.
Characteristics of the Carmen
A carmen is defined by its dual nature: part orchard, part garden—yet not entirely one or the other. It is a private property, enclosed by walls, attached to a house that, while urban, remains closely integrated with nature.
Often located on Granada’s hillsides, they usually enjoy privileged views. As Seco de Lucena described, “In the carmen, flowers intertwine with vegetables in a heartfelt union. The trees are not purely ornamental: they decorate, provide shade and freshness, and at the same time bear excellent fruit.”
Here, the scents of lilies, roses, jasmines, carnations, tuberoses, wallflowers, honeysuckle, or night-blooming jasmine mingle with harvests of pomegranates, chard, apricots, lettuce, plums, beans, peaches, spinach, pears, thistles, apples, and strawberries—often enough to supply a family.
Must-See Cármenes in Granada
Among the most representative are the Campo de los Mártires and the Aljibe del Rey.
Campo de los Mártires
Formerly called “Campo de Ahabul” by the Muslims and “Field of the Captives” by the Christians, this was the site from which Boabdil surrendered Granada to the Catholic Monarchs.
This over-seven-hectare site, declared a Site of Cultural Interest in 1943, contains a mansion surrounded by orchards, gardens of different styles (English, French, and Spanish), terraces, the Island on the lake, and a splendid Nasrid courtyard. One of its entrances, near the Alhambra forest, is just steps from Hammam Al Ándalus Granada, at the Puerta de las Granadas.
Aljibe del Rey
Located in the Albaicín, this carmen consists of a large main building surrounded by orchards, gardens, and small structures, totaling nearly two thousand square meters. Its most distinctive feature is the interior courtyard built over a three-hundred-cubic-meter cistern, the largest in the area. Today, the building is used for cultural activities.
A Heritage Worth Preserving
Enjoying Granada is about more than strolling its streets or visiting the Alhambra. Alongside the experience of a bath at Hammam Al Ándalus, exploring its cármenes offers a journey into a unique world that is part of the city’s landscape identity. A legacy that must be preserved so it never disappears from its skyline.
